Gay visitors

Macho Mexican society has a double standard about homosexuality: it is surprisingly tolerant of homosexuals if they are discreet, but full of prejudice if they come out into the open. Many gay men, especially those over-30, are married with children but see male lovers. Lesbians, meanwhile, are practically invisible.

The gay scene, like bars and nightclubs generally, is constantly in flux. Most gay bars double as nightclubs and range from somewhat sleazy to quite nasty. There are several in the Zona Rosa shopping district, which also turns into a big gay cruising ground on weekend afternoons. Bigger, more commercial nightclubs do not get going until about midnight. For listings, look at www.sergay.com.mx or www.gaymexico.net, both of which have information in English. The city listings magazine, Tiempo Libre, available at newsstands, also has a gay section.

For a more civilised experience, take a turn around the cafés and restaurants of La Condesa, which is an informal meeting place for the many gay people who live in the area. There are several gay-owned or gay-friendly restaurants, among them El Principio, Tamaulipas 61, on the corner of Fernando Montes de Oca (tel: +52 (55) 5286-0657); and Café Lorca, Parque España # 3, on the corner of Oaxaca (tel: +52 (55) 5207-8764).